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History of Leland: From Native Fishers to Michigan's Gem

Leland began as a magnet for fishermen long before the first European settlers appeared. Native Americans had for centuries harvested whitefish and lake trout in the waters of Lake Michigan, using the rivers and streams as natural spawning grounds. When settlers from Europe — Germans, Irish, and French — arrived here in the 1850s, they discovered an ideal place for commercial fishing: a protected harbor, abundant fish stocks, and a convenient location on the route between the settlements of the Leelanau Peninsula. Thus was born a fishing village that over time became one of the most colorful towns in Michigan.

The commercial fishing fleet flourished in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Leland became a central hub for harvesting whitefish and lake trout, and fishing shacks along the river grew like mushrooms after rain. The Leland Historic District, including downtown and the famous Fishtown, was listed on the Michigan State Register of Historic Places in 1973, and two years later was added to the National Register of Historic Places. Fishtown itself received separate recognition on this register in 2022, underscoring its unique value as one of the few surviving commercial fishing villages on the Great Lakes.

Fishtown — Living Heritage of the Great Lakes

Fishtown is not an open-air museum but a working fishing village. The wooden shacks built in the early 20th century still serve their owners today. Smokehouses operate here, fishing tugs Joy and Janice Sue stand at the docks, and charter boats head out onto the lake daily. The nonprofit organization Fishtown Preservation Society manages this district and ensures the preservation of its historic character, so visitors can experience the atmosphere of a real working fishing harbor.

The family business Carlson's Fishery has operated here since 1904 — five generations of the same family have been fishing and processing the catch. In 2004, they transferred the property, fishing licenses, and equipment to the Fishtown preservation society but continue to run their retail operation at the dock. In winter, the sunken ship SS Francisco Morazan is visible from Fishtown, creating a gloomy yet mesmerizing atmosphere. The Leelanau Preservers Tile Wall and the champion stump — a massive cottonwood tree cut down due to disease — have become local landmarks.

Sleeping Bear Dunes: Dunes Reaching for the Sky

The Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore begins just minutes from Leland. This place has been repeatedly recognized as the most beautiful in America, and for good reason. The sand dunes rise 140 meters above the level of Lake Michigan, offering panoramic views that take your breath away. The Dune Climb is a steep ascent for those who want to test their strength, and from the top there are views of North Bar Lake.

The Empire Bluff Trail is one of the most popular: 1.5 kilometers through the forest lead to a cliff with a view of the vast expanse of the lake. Pyramid Point Trail is a 2.7-mile loop through forests with stunning views, and Leelanau Clay Cliffs is an easy 1.5-mile loop with wildflowers and lake views. The scenic Pierce-Stocking Scenic Drive runs through the park with overlooks offering views of North Bar and Glen Lakes. The Cottonwood Trail, 1.7 miles long, winds through the dunes with views of Glen Lake, and Good Harbor Bay Beach offers a sandy beach for swimming and relaxation.

Manitou Islands: A Lost World Just a Ferry Ride Away

From the Fishtown dock, a ferries depart to North and South Manitou. The South Manitou Island Light Station — a 19th-century lighthouse that guided sailors for over 150 years — is the island's main attraction. Today, you can reach it on the Manitou Island Transit ferry, which operates from Leland's harbor. A family business serving the islands for many generations offers day trips and camping transfers.

On the islands, you can camp among the pines, explore secluded beaches, and walk along quiet shoreline trails. It is best to book ferry tickets in advance — arriving at the dock 45 minutes before departure is recommended. This journey transports you to a completely different world where there are no cars or cell service — just wind, pines, and the sound of waves. On South Manitou Island, you can also find remnants of historic settlements and a cemetery of the first settlers.

Smoked Whitefish and Wines of the 45th Parallel

Gourmet Leland revolves around fresh lake fish and local wines. The restaurant The Cove is located right on the dam in historic Fishtown with views of the lake and Manitou Islands. Open from May through October. The menu features fresh Lake Michigan whitefish, seafood chowder, hand-cut steaks, and signature desserts: cherry pie, chocolate cherry cheesecake, and key lime pie. The Chubby Mary cocktail — their version of a Bloody Mary — has become a local legend. Downstairs is Rick's Cafe with grilled burgers.

Bluebird Restaurant & Tavern was founded in 1927 by the Telgard family and remains a family business to this day. The restaurant sits on the banks of the Leland River, which connects Lake Leelanau to Lake Michigan. A recent renovation added a 100-seat terrace. Fresh whitefish here is served with seasonal herb oil or a crispy lemon-herb crust. Riverside Inn Restaurant is known for elevated American cuisine and its signature dish Riverside Special — pan-seared whitefish fillet with creamy dill sauce and local vegetables.

Wineries Blustone Vineyards, Verterra Winery, and 45 North Vineyard and Winery offer tastings of wines produced at the 45th parallel — the same latitude as Europe's famous wine regions. The summer rosé Summer Rose and the signature wine Witches Brew from Leelanau Cellars have become the calling card of the peninsula. Village Cheese Shanty in Fishtown offers over 60 types of cheese, sandwiches, and bento lunches daily from May through October, and Dam Candy Store delights with candies, ice cream, and chocolate.

Trails, Lighthouses, and the Northern Lights

Leland and its surroundings offer dozens of kilometers of hiking trails for every taste. Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail is a bicycle and pedestrian path passing historic monuments through the park with beautiful views of the dunes and Lake Michigan. Shauger Hill transforms into a Nordic skiing and snowshoeing route in winter. Alligator Hill offers several loops from 2.3 to 6 miles with panoramic lake views. Sleeping Bear Point Maritime Museum tells the story of the region's maritime heritage, and Glen Haven Historic Village is a historic settlement with a general store and beach.

The Sleeping Bear Dunes are one of the best places in lower Michigan for viewing the northern lights. The absence of light pollution and the open horizon make them an ideal platform for astrophotography. Bears, deer, beavers, foxes, and rare birds are common inhabitants of these parts, so binoculars will come in handy any time of year. Kayaking around the Manitou Islands and on the Leland River, fishing on Lake Michigan, and sailing through Leland Yacht Club with Sunfish boat rentals — water activities are available from spring through fall.

What the Cameras Show

Leland webcams allow you to see Fishtown, the harbor, and the waterfront in real time. Cameras aimed at the historic district show fishing shacks, tugs at the docks, and ferries departing for the Manitou Islands. Waterfront broadcasts offer views of Lake Michigan and the Leland River. Choose any camera to feel the atmosphere of this fishing town — from morning fog over the harbor to the sunset light on the dunes.