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The Provençal town watched by the whole world

Between Toulon and Marseille, where the Côte d'Azur hasn't yet turned into a continuous chain of resorts, lies Sanary-sur-Mer — a small port with big biographies. Toulon is just 12 kilometers away, Marseille about 50, and just over eighteen thousand people live here. And yet it's this town that lovers of Provence regularly turn their gaze to: both tourists planning a trip and those who simply turn on webcams Sanary-sur-Mer online to see boats bobbing in the harbor and vendors setting up their stalls.

Sanary is that rare case where the name on the map sounds bigger than the town itself. The place where modern diving was born. The place where leading German writers gathered in the pre-war years. The place with one of the most beautiful markets in France. Let's explore what this corner of the Var department is really all about.

The tower around which the entire city grew

Sanary's history begins in the 11th century, when a settlement called Saint-Nazaire appeared on a rocky headland — named after the martyr Nazarius. Centuries later, maritime trade gave the town a new look: the Roman Tower (Tour Romane) has been preserved — a 13th-century watchtower that housed a garrison in the Middle Ages. It was around this tower that the original settlement formed: the narrow streets of the old town still radiate outward from it like spokes of a wheel.

The Romanesque tower is named for its shape — heavy, squat, with a round base, it watched the sea horizon for Saracen corsairs for centuries. Today, a completely different history lives inside it, which we'll tell you about below, while outside the tower remains the city's main silhouette, the first thing noticed by those arriving at the port.

Strangely enough, the city's name also echoes the distant past: "Saint-Nazaire" gradually transformed into "Sanary," and the suffix "sur-Mer" — "on the sea" — was added later, when the fishing village became a resort. And this is not a mere formality: the sea is truly the main character here.

The port where boats are painted in Provençal colors

The port of Sanary-sur-Mer is the heart of the city and its best viewpoint. Dozens of traditional fishing boats called pointus — narrow, with high prows, painted in blue, green, and red tones — line the water's edge like a film set. They have indeed served as sets: Sanary has been chosen by filmmakers many times, and the local boats have even been granted historical monument status as maritime cultural heritage.

The waterfront is paved with light tiles, lined with cafes with terraces where the aromas of coffee foam, salt, and jasmine mingle. In the morning, fishermen trade here — straight from their boats, as has been the custom for centuries; and on Wednesdays, what people come from all over the department for rises above the waterfront — the famous market considered one of the best and most beautiful markets in France. The promenade turns into a noisy bazaar: olives, Provençal herbs, sausages, ceramics from Vallauris, baskets, spices — all of southern France laid out on the stalls. The street market operates year-round, and on Wednesdays Sanary looks its most "Provençal."

Along the coast from the port stretches a chain of beaches with fine golden sand alternating with rocky coves; the most famous is Portissol with its wide strip of sand and pine trees. If you set the window with the Sanary-sur-Mer live camera to the port or waterfront, you can watch for hours as the light changes over the harbor — Provence is rightly called "light painting."

The capital appointed by war

The most unexpected page in the city's biography is the literary one. In the 1930s, when the Nazis came to power in Germany, Sanary-sur-Mer became a refuge for German intellectuals. Thomas Mann, Heinrich Mann, Klaus Mann, Erika Mann, Lion Feuchtwanger, Arnold Zweig, Franz Hessel lived and wrote here. It was for this that the city was later called the "Cultural Capital of Provence during World War II."

Imagine: a small fishing town where future Nobel laureates and authors of great novels lived in neighboring villas, and the fate of Europe was discussed in the shade of plane trees. The villa where Thomas Mann lived has been preserved to this day — as has the memory of this "literary exile," which became one of the most poetic chapters in Sanary's history.

Diving mecca: how Sanary gave the world the aqualung

Sanary-sur-Mer has a proud title — the historical birthplace of modern diving. It was in these waters in 1943 that Jacques-Yves Cousteau, Frédéric Dumas, and Philippe Tailliez tested the first modern aqualung — the very one that opened the underwater world to humanity. The tests took place off the coast of Sanary, and since then the city has officially positioned itself as the "diving capital." The villa where Cousteau lived and worked, preparing his first expeditions, is also located here.

Today, a monument to the three pioneers of deep-sea diving stands on the waterfront, and in summer the city is full of diving schools and boats heading to the Embiez Islands — an underwater reserve with sunken ships. If you watch the Sanary-sur-Mer live stream from the sea and the water seems unrealistically clear — it's not optics. These are the same waters from which the first divers once emerged.

Frédéric Dumas Museum — a reliquary of the underwater world

The second hero of Sanary's underwater history is Frédéric Dumas, Cousteau's companion, the first commander of his legendary ship "Calypso," and the main "diver" of that great trio. In his memory, the city opened the Frédéric Dumas Museum in the Roman Tower — the world's first museum of underwater archaeology and diving. Entry is free, and it's open most of the year — only closed for a couple of summer months.

Inside is not a formal museum but a cozy treasure cabinet: amphorae raised from the seabed during expeditions in which Dumas participated with Cousteau, old aqualungs, underwater cameras, dive maps, and personal belongings of the legendary diver. His daughter Juliette Dumas also preserves the memory of her father — she maintains Frédéric's old house in Sanary, where the collection continues. The result is a rare museum symbiosis: a 13th-century medieval tower filled inside with 20th-century history — the story of the man who taught the world to breathe underwater.

Old town: narrow streets, flair, and stained glass

Behind the port begins old Sanary — a labyrinth of narrow alleys with pastel-colored plastered facades, shutters, and geraniums climbing the walls. Here all roads lead to the parish church of Saint-Nazaire — not a cathedral, but a stone church with a quiet courtyard and stained glass characteristic of these places. It seems time has stood still here: the same houses stand as during the writers' exile, and the same Roman Tower on the horizon.

Walk up the alleys and you'll reach the residential quarters on the slope, where a panorama of the bay, port, and distant Toulon opens up from above. And below, on the waterfront, life goes on around the clock: a fisherman in the morning, a terrace in the afternoon, strolling families in the evening. It's this "double life" of the city — quiet top and noisy bottom — that makes Sanary so photogenic.

What to know before your trip (or before turning on the camera)

A few useful details about the city:

— Sanary-sur-Mer is part of the Var department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region; the population density here is 964 people per km², which is very high for a small coastal town: Sanary is densely populated and lives year-round, not just in season.

— The major neighbors are close at hand: Toulon with its military port and cable car to Mont Faron is in the next city over, Marseille with its calanques is an hour's drive away.

— The climate is mild Mediterranean: the sea is warm most of the year, and winters here are more like "autumn" by Russian standards. That's why the city doesn't "close" for the season — the market, port cafes, and museums operate continuously.

— A must-do for anyone visiting in person: a walk along the promenade on Wednesday morning (for the market), a descent to Portissol beach, and an ascent to the Roman Tower.

What cameras show the city

Everything discussed above can be seen without postponing your trip — through webcams Sanary-sur-Mer online. This page collects all the city's broadcasts, and each offers its own perspective: the main Sanary-sur-Mer port camera shows the classic postcard — colorful pointus, the Roman Tower in the background, and strollers along the waterfront; the camera at Portissol beach captures the sea, pine trees, and white sails; street cameras in the old town and on the market waterfront on Wednesdays become a window to that famous bazaar.

Choose any of the broadcasts in the catalog above — and Sanary-sur-Mer, birthplace of the aqualung and literary refuge of the 20th century, will be live on your screen. Watch the sails rise, the light come on over the tower, and the port days unfold in this small but famous city on the Côte d'Azur.

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